Oxtail Is Gaining Fans. That’s Not Entirely Good.
When the chef Lerone Mullin opened the Jerk Grill, his fast-casual restaurant in Redlands, Calif., in 2021, customers told him they loved his Caribbean classics, like brown stew chicken, and his Caribbean-Mexican mash-ups, like a jerk chicken burrito. But they asked for one addition. “Everybody just wanted oxtail,” he said, adding, “I didn’t even know…