Is Black Wine the New Orange?

In California, where alicante bouschet plants were largely ripped out post-Prohibition, the winemaker Raj Parr, 51, is dedicated to honoring the state’s history via its forgotten vines. His dramatically hued Scythians Red is about one third alicante bouschet, which he sources from an abandoned plot close enough to Ontario airport that the leaves shake when…

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Orange You Glad It’s Peak Citrus Season

The texts start rolling in around the last week of January. “I hope the girls are getting their prescribed four sumos a day.” “Two sumos down before 1 p.m.” “And now I’m eating a sumo!!!” My friends and I approach peak sumo orange season with thunderous enthusiasm, and for good reason: The arrival of the…

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