Eric Kim has just written a luminous essay about Japanese breakfast, with its constellation of small savory dishes (rice, miso soup, fish, pickles), and the daily practice of preparing it. You could make it bespoke every day, but the more pragmatic approach is to cook some of the elements ahead and fill out the meal…
About once a week, I find myself eating miso butter off a spoon like a deer with a salt lick. (In case you’ve ever wondered what the glamorous life of a Cooking editor looks like, that’s mostly it.) For me, it started with Sam Sifton’s recipe for miso chicken, a really lovely way to cook…
I respect leeks. They stand firm and tall above their allium kin, their jade-green tops proudly poking out from your grocery bag. They make you work for them, with all that careful washing to rinse the sand and grit from between their layers. (They’re also, as far as I know, the only vegetable to be…
