When I started writing this newsletter six years ago, I pitched it as “recipes for busy people who still want something good to eat.” I wanted to solve the dinner problem, that daily 5 p.m. quandary of what to cook when you’re hungry and tired out from the day. Every week since, I’ve picked five…
The subtitle of the stunning new cookbook “French Boulangerie,” from Ferrandi Paris, the French equivalent of the Culinary Institute of America, should be “Fermentation.” All but a couple of the recipes in the book involve the process. At the outset, after covering ingredients and explaining gluten, there are lengthy how-to’s describing several fermentation techniques: levain,…
